None.

Release tension is non-adjustable and much too light to keep the pedals engaged, even on easy climbs. Don't even think about working out of the saddle on these, unless you enjoy crashing. New out of the box, properly installed, and properly engaged, these pedals would not keep me locked in even during moderate exertion. After abandoning the ride and re-installing a few times, I took them off for good and went back to the Ritcheys.

The light weight and float are useless because the pedals are useless. Why waste time and money on a pedal that provides nothing remotely resembling a secure lock-in? They are worth less than the space they occupy in the spare parts bin. No more purchases of pedals w/o adjustable release.

Similar Products Used:

SPD, Ritchey Logic, Ritchey V4.

light. low stack height. durable cleat.

sometimes they come with some play and setting them up so that they will engage can take a small shim.

When they are set-up right, which isn't too hard, and when you get a set that is tight (some come looser from the start), and when you drill your shoes for two hole...then they're nicer than speedplay in terms of durability, weight, and stack height.

Similar Products Used:

speedplay. campy record. spd. time

free float, easy in-out

have to modify mtb shoes to mount cleats, distorted cleat from overtightening mounting bolts will affect engagement to pedal, when you need to rebuild these pedals get ready for bad time, my cleats seem loose and they rattle on the pedal when I ride

I'm a fan of free-float pedals since a knee issue came up years ago on a week long tour. Decided to use speedplay x pedals and am still happy with them. Wanted another type of f-f pedal for a mtb shoe that the sp-x won't work with. The choice is either bebop or sp-frogs. I chose bebop because of other reviews. I have 1 pr on the bike in this review and 2 more on our tandem. If you can deal with the install issues and adjustments, bebops are great... until the rear seal fails and you have to rebuild. There are rebuild kits (Universal Cycles) but there are no instructions and no info on the website. I went into this blind with the following problems: 1) the screw that must be removed after the circ clip is phillips head and very soft, you will strip it so plan on getting an e-z out to get it out, 2) after you get the body off the spindle you will find that the outer sealed bearing comes off easily, but the inner roller/needle bearing will not come out. This is where I am today with 2 destroyed bodies, several tools and liquid solvent products bought to try to remove them without success. I'm convinced that the steel shell of the bearing has bonded to the alloy pedal body or it's so tight in tolerance that it was never meant to come out after being pressed in by a machine!!! If someone reading this has been successful in rebuilding one, let me know how you got the inner bearing out. It seems that if bonding of 2 different metals is a potential problem, the manuf should have used a little anti-sieze compound during assembly. For this reason I'm going to give speedplay frogs a try. My ratings are low but not the lowest because the pedals were pretty good while they worked.

Similar Products Used:

speedplay x, speedplay frog

Double sided entry, light, plenty of float, no hot spots

could use a cleat cover

Excellent light weight, worked better for me than Speedplay Zero's. Engagement easy and psoitive, no issues with disengaging

Similar Products Used:

shimarno SPD, Speedplay Zero

Great on knees.

Finicky locking system sometimes takes a while to get clicked in. Most unacceptable is that the right pedal now unclips during regular cycling at a moderate clip. Stopped using the pedals due to downright dangerous condition. Light user, good maintenance, simply inexcusable! Cleats are the weak link.

They were good for a while. These pedals allowed me to ride pain free after SPD pedals nearly put me on crutches. The non-centering float is just the ticket for forty something knees.

Similar Products Used:

Look, SPD

Easy to clip in - normally without having to look down.

Easy to clip out - if the cleat is set up just right.

Small and light.

Low pedal height requires cutting away part of the sole (at least on my MTN shoes).

Tricky to tighten cleat screws just right. I went down when unable to unclip an overtightened cleat. I went down unable to unclip when the cleat screws loosened after being undertightened. Had to use threadlock on the screws.

Gave me hotspots on rides over 20-30 miles.

Expensive and hard to find cleats.

It worked very well for short rides, but gave me hot spots over 20-30 miles. Repositioning cleats did not help.

I switched to Shimano A520 (touring pedal), and I like them much more (as clip-in pedal, platform side is a different story).

Similar Products Used:

Crank Bros, Speedplay Frog, Shimano A520, platform pedals

Everything.

Not a real weakness, but the cleats do wear out and you do have to hunt around a bit to find replacements.

I love this pedal. I run it on all my bikes-mountain and road and have for many years. Tons of float, low stack, releases both ways, double sided, sexy. What's not to like? The reason you don't see more of these is because they're not flashing at you from the banners and pop-ups and they're not new and different every year--so this consumeristic world turns a deaf ear.

I like a bit of lube, wax is best, on mine for that slickery feeling.

Similar Products Used:

look, speedplay, spd, etc.

light weight, double sidedness, price, cornering clearance, durable and ungunkable cleats

more people don't ride them so your LBS probably doesn't stock the cleats

These things just work perfectly. The metal cleats are very durable and don't gunk up. They engage and disengage easily. They're light, double sided, cheaper than comparable speedplay models, and have excellent cornering clearance. What more could you want? The only maintenance they require is a drop of lube on the latching mechanism every month or two to keep disengagement silky smooth.

Similar Products Used:

various spds